Climbing Side Roma

Climbing Side Roma

Over the course of my work as a coach I have developed and trained many athletes; with nine of them we went on to win Italian Championships in every discipline — Lead, Boulder and Speed — at both junior and senior level. It is the development of an athlete that reveals a coach's real qualities: raising an athlete from childhood, teaching them how to move, building their physical and mental structure over the years, are processes that go beyond the job of coaching. That path has led to 58 Italian titles with 9 different athletes, to countless international podiums with 4 different athletes, to more than 130 medals at the Italian Youth Championships and, with Climbing Side Roma, to two U14 team Italian titles, two U21 team silvers and the Senior team title in Lead. And last of all… to developing and coaching a two-time Olympian and two-time European Champion, eight times on the World Cup podium with 2 golds, 5 silvers and a bronze.

Qualifications and activity

  • Physical Education teacher
  • Osteopath
  • Shiatsu therapist
  • Research on climbing biomechanics at the University of Rome 4
  • Research collaborator at the Institute of Sports Medicine and Science
  • Coach for the Italian Senior and Junior national teams
  • Head of Elite athletes for Olympic preparation
  • Instructor trainer for FASI, the Italian sport climbing federation
  • Design, construction and management of four climbing gyms in Rome
  • 20 years of experience coaching at elite level

Personal competition results

  • Eight years among the top 10 athletes in the CNP, the Italian permanent national ranking
  • Twice on the podium at Coppa Italia events, including one win
  • Several 8c redpoints and 8a onsights on rock

Athletes

These are the athletes who best represent my work as a coach.

LAURA ROGORA

LAURA ROGORA

I have coached Laura since she was 7, with a dedication that has taken her to the Olympics, to a World Cup win, to 9b+ on rock and 8c+ onsight. She is an extraordinary athlete with uncommon determination. Her development was managed gradually, without any need to reach particular milestones early, with the single aim of making her as strong as she could possibly be. Her intelligence lets her absorb every training stimulus, hold on to what works and manage her mistakes, reducing them over time; day after day this has widened her technical and tactical range.

Although she is not naturally gifted with strength or explosiveness, over the years we have built a physiological response that lets her get through movements of very high intensity — helped, too, by technical qualities that are probably the best on the world circuit when it comes to gripping and standing on holds. She is a complete athlete, at the top of the world in lead but very strong in boulder as well, as her two youth World titles and her many Italian boulder championships show. Today Laura is one of the strongest lead climbers on the world circuit and, on rock, the best of all time.

CHIARA ROGORA

CHIARA ROGORA

Chiara trained with me from the age of 10 to 17. She was always strong in Speed, winning the Italian Senior Championship while still very young, along with many medals at the European Youth Cup and the Italian Youth Championships. Very determined and methodical in training, her limit was a lack of strength, which she made up for with good technique. Chiara is not the classic Speed athlete who climbs little and perhaps badly: she does very well in boulder and on a rope too. Years of training leave their mark.

MATTEO MARROCCHI

MATTEO MARROCCHI

Matteo started training at the age of six and won the Italian U10 Boulder Championship and the Italian U12 Combined Championship, beating an exceptional field that included the future Junior World Champions in Boulder and Combined. Anyone who knows elite sport is aware that at junior level not all titles are equal: it depends on which athletes happen to be competing in those two years. Matteo left sport climbing at 12 to take up tennis, doing very well in that sport too, and I followed him through that new path, looking after his physical and technical preparation. He came back to climbing at 20 and was soon sending 8c routes in a handful of tries; today he has 9a on a rope and 8c in boulder to his name. He runs Climbing Side Roma.

REBECCA BELARDINELLI

REBECCA BELARDINELLI

Rebecca was born in 2010. European U17 Speed vice-champion, three times on the podium at the European Youth Cup, Italian Boulder Champion U10 and U12, Italian Lead Champion U12, Italian Boulder and Lead Champion U14, Italian Combined Champion U10, U12 and U14. She is a volcano of energy, and when there is no doubt in her head she is simply unstoppable; when things do not come off straight away, though, she goes into crisis. She has a great deal of power and mobility, a combination that makes her very effective on physical boulders, and she also expresses herself very well in Lead, with solid, precise climbing.

SIMONE BELARDINELLI

SIMONE BELARDINELLI

Simone was born in 2007. Third at the European U19 Lead Cup, Italian U21 Champion in Boulder, Speed and Combined, Italian U10 Boulder vice-champion and third in U10 Combined, Italian U16 Speed vice-champion and third in U16 Combined. Simone has uncommon coordination: he makes the most of shifts in his centre of gravity, transferring energy from one movement to the next with remarkable fluidity. He lacks a little strength and needs to work hard in that direction, which would also give him more clarity in the more intense movements typical of Lead.

ELENA BRUNETTI

ELENA BRUNETTI

Elena was born in 2008. Winner of a Senior Lead Coppa Italia round, Italian U16 Champion in Lead, Boulder and Combined, Italian U14 Lead Champion and third in U14 Combined, Italian U12 vice-champion in Lead and Combined, U10 vice-champion in Lead and Boulder and third in U10 Combined. Very precise on footholds and on grips, she climbs decisively until fatigue sets in, at which point she loses conviction. She struggles to perform fast movements, and the goal ahead is to improve her coordination so that she can use her whole body when she moves.

ALEIDA BARNABA

ALEIDA BARNABA

Aleida was born in 2012. Italian U12 Lead Champion and third in U12 Combined, U17 Lead vice-champion and second in the U17 Coppa Italia. Very gifted physically, with both great endurance and explosiveness — qualities that rarely come together. Already very solid in her physical structure, she needs to learn to manage her emotions so as not to lose focus, above all on uncertain, low-percentage moves.

EVALUNA GRELLA

EVALUNA GRELLA

Evaluna was born in 2012 and trained with me until 2022. At the Italian U10 Championships she won everything — Lead, Boulder, Speed and Combined — and despite being very tall she has good finger strength and good endurance. Very focused in training, she corrects her mistakes as soon as they are explained to her, which matters a great deal at that age. Her real quality is the will to win: in competition that becomes an essential drive for her.

CESARE TRILLò

CESARE TRILLò

Cesare was born in 2016 and has won the Italian U11 Speed Championships. He is only 10, so no predictions can be made about the future, but I have never seen anyone climb the way he does at this age: he already moves like a high-level adult, closing the angles of his hand even on overhanging ground. He is complete in every physical quality — strength, speed, endurance and coordination.

Athlete Programming

The way I approach the programming of a training plan always starts from biomechanical assessment and involves every aspect of an athlete's qualities: technical, tactical, physical and mental. Technique does not improve by teaching the fundamentals, still less by simply pointing out which holds and footholds are useful for making progress. Correct technique is acquired only by internalising the useful contractions and bringing the useless ones into focus. It is a demanding approach that requires competence in teaching and dedication in learning. In the same way, physical abilities are trained by identifying the physiology through which each individual athlete produces movement — a physiology that leads to completely different ways of executing it from one person to the next. Only through a biomechanical approach is it possible to identify an athlete's real individual qualities or shortcomings and to put together a programme that genuinely improves their physical abilities. This method holds just as well for a complete beginner as for an advanced athlete; only the motivational component makes the difference, and the depth of the teaching must be proportional to the capacity to learn.

Training

A book on the physiological principles that govern movement in sport climbing is in the works. My approach is founded on a biomechanical analysis of motor execution, used to identify which contractions are advantageous and which are not. Only once the mechanics governing those contractions are understood can we analyse the physiological characteristics needed to develop them — characteristics that involve the energy processes of every motor unit. This analysis first helps us to identify the typing of the muscle cells, their enzyme profile, the buffers inside and outside the cell, the capacity to use oxygen and the mechanisms behind lactic power and lactic capacity, as well as giving us useful indications for programming, for warming up and for stretching. Training Science is a highly articulated subject: competence and experience alone are not enough to make a good coach or a good training session — sensitivity is needed to understand the differences and the characteristics of each individual person. We are not machines, but individuals governed by complex biological factors that make us different from one another. Serious training has to take those differences into account and direct its stimuli towards the real needs of each single athlete, and a biomechanical approach helps us to know each athlete better.

Climbing Side Family

Video

News

From September the gym will follow new opening hours: Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 16.00 to 22.00, Tuesday and Thursday from 12.00 to 22.00, Saturday and Sunday from 11.00 to 17.00.

In August the gym will be closed until the 21st; for the rest of the month we will be open on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 16.00 to 22.00.
In September we will go back to full hours: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 16/22,
Tuesday and Thursday 12/22.